Greenly Garden

Companion planting chart

Which vegetables, herbs and flowers to grow side by side and which to keep apart — 38 pairs, each with its reason, evidence level and sources. Where a popular pairing is folklore, the chart says so.

How to read the evidence levels

  • research-backed: a published trial or study measured the effect; we also say what it did not show.
  • practical reason: a plain reason an extension service gives: shade, support, row marking, a shared pest or disease.
  • tradition, little evidence: repeated in companion charts, but we found no trial behind it. The best-known ones are listed so you know what is folklore.

Left out for want of a source: tomato and asparagus, potato and horseradish, garlic and roses, dill next to tomatoes or carrots, nasturtium as a trap for cabbage pests.

All pairs

PlantNeighbourTogether?EvidenceWhy
BasilTomatogood togetherpractical reasonBoth like warmth and grow well together (Oregon State Extension). A three-year garden trial found no fewer tomato pests and no difference in taste, though beds mixed with basil used the space about 20% better on average (Bomford, 2004). [8][13]
BeetRadishgood togetherpractical reasonA pinch of radish seed in the beet row comes up within days and shows where the row is; the radishes are eaten before the beets need the space (University of Maryland Extension). [12]
Bell PepperSweet Cornkeep apartpractical reasonPeppers are a host of the corn earworm moth (Helicoverpa zea). When corn silks turn brown, the moths move to nearby crops to lay eggs, and Utah State Extension advises keeping peppers away from corn. [6]
Bell PepperWalnutkeep apartpractical reasonPeppers are among the vegetables Wisconsin Extension lists as hurt by juglone from walnut roots. English walnut releases much less than black walnut, yet a bed under any walnut also loses light and water to the tree. [4][5]
Broad beanCabbagegood togetherpractical reasonOregon State Extension pairs cabbage-family crops with legumes such as fava beans: legumes add nitrogen to the soil, but only once their roots are left to decay — they don’t feed a neighbouring cabbage the same season (WSU). [8][11]
BroccoliCilantrogood togetherresearch-backedFlowering cilantro (coriander) attracted many hoverflies, aphid predators, beside brassica crops in a UNH Extension trial — let a few plants bloom. Whether it lowered aphids on the broccoli itself was not measured. [17]
CabbageCalendulakeep apartresearch-backedIn a UNH Extension trial of flowers grown beside brassicas to attract beneficial insects, calendula hosted the imported cabbageworm, a cabbage pest, and drew fewer hoverflies than dill or cilantro. [17]
CabbageDillgood togetherresearch-backedIn a UNH Extension trial beside brassica crops, flowering dill drew more hoverflies — whose larvae eat aphids — than calendula, phacelia or fennel. Whether that cut aphids on the cabbages was not shown. [17]
CabbageMintgood togethertradition, little evidenceMint’s scent is said to keep cabbage pests away. WSU Extension finds that field studies don’t support aromatic plants as repellents in gardens, and Oregon State Extension says there is not enough research yet. [11][8]
CarrotLettucegood togetherpractical reasonWSU Extension’s rule for companions is to pair root systems that don’t compete — its own example is deep-rooted carrots with shallow-rooted lettuce. [11]
CarrotOniongood togetherresearch-backedIn a UK trial, rows of onions among carrots cut carrot fly attack, but only while the onions were young and leafy — once they bulbed the effect was nearly gone (Uvah & Coaker, 1984). A Finnish trial found only a slight effect (Varis, 1991). [15][16]
CarrotRadishgood togetherpractical reasonRadishes come up in a few days and mark the row of slow-germinating carrots; they are pulled long before the carrots need the room (University of Maryland Extension). [12]
CarrotTomatogood togetherpractical reasonCarrots do not like heat; Oregon State Extension suggests growing them next to tomato plants, which give them shade in summer. [8]
CornCucumbergood togetherpractical reasonSmall vining cucumbers, such as pickling types, can use corn stalks as a living trellis and save space (Oregon State Extension). Heavy slicing cucumbers need a proper trellis. [8]
CornGreen Beansgood togetherpractical reasonPole beans climb corn stalks, and the two root at different depths (Oregon State Extension) — two of the ‘Three Sisters’. The beans’ nitrogen reaches the corn only after their roots decay, so corn still needs feeding (Cornell). [8][9]
CornLettucegood togetherpractical reasonTall corn shades lettuce in midsummer, keeping it cooler and slowing bolting (Oregon State Extension). Sow the lettuce on the side where the corn’s shade falls. [8]
CornPumpkingood togetherpractical reasonIn a ‘Three Sisters’ bed, broad pumpkin and squash leaves shade the soil under the corn and hold back weeds (Cornell Cooperative Extension). A root model found up to 7% more nitrate uptake in the mix; in gardens a yield gain is unproven (WSU). [9][10][11]
CornTomatokeep apartpractical reasonField corn feeds the same moth as sweet corn: corn earworm, called tomato fruitworm on tomatoes. Moths leave browning silks for nearby tomatoes (Utah State Extension); the UC Master Gardener chart also lists the pair as incompatible. [6][7]
CucumberPotatokeep aparttradition, little evidenceOld companion charts, including the UC Master Gardener chart, say cucumbers and potatoes should not share a bed. No trial we found tests it; WSU Extension says such pairings are mostly folklore. [7][11]
EggplantSweet Cornkeep apartpractical reasonEggplant is on Utah State Extension’s list of crops not to grow near corn after silking: the corn earworm moth (Helicoverpa zea) then leaves the drying silks for nearby hosts. [6]
Florence fennelTomatokeep aparttradition, little evidenceFennel is often called a bad neighbour, for tomatoes too (UC Master Gardener chart). We found no garden trial that confirms it, so treat it as tradition. [7][11]
GarlicGreen Beanskeep aparttradition, little evidenceCharts list garlic as a bad neighbour for beans (UC Master Gardener chart, after ATTRA). It is tradition: we found no trial showing that garlic harms beans. [7][11]
GarlicPeaskeep aparttradition, little evidenceCompanion charts keep peas apart from garlic and the rest of the onion family; we could find no published trial behind it, so it is tradition rather than fact. [7][11]
Green BeansOnionkeep aparttradition, little evidenceCompanion charts, such as the UC Master Gardener chart, say onions stunt beans. We found no trial testing it, and WSU Extension notes that most chart pairings lack evidence — treat it as tradition. [7][11]
Green BeansPumpkingood togetherpractical reasonBeans and squash complete the ‘Three Sisters’: beans climb the corn while pumpkin covers the ground (Cornell). WSU Extension found no convincing evidence that the trio out-yields separate beds in a garden — grow it for space and tradition. [9][11]
KohlrabiRadishgood togetherpractical reasonFast radishes mark the kohlrabi row and are pulled before the kohlrabi needs the space (University of Maryland Extension names kohlrabi among the crops to mark this way). [12]
LettuceRadishgood togetherpractical reasonRadish sown in the lettuce row marks it within days and is harvested before the lettuce fills out (University of Maryland Extension). [12]
LettuceTomatogood togetherpractical reasonLettuce bolts in summer heat. Oregon State Extension suggests planting it behind tall tomato plants, which shade it by midsummer. [8]
MarigoldTomatogood togetherresearch-backedIn UK glasshouse trials, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) grown among tomatoes from the start slowed glasshouse whitefly, through limonene in their scent. Marigolds added after whiteflies had built up did little (Conboy et al., 2019). [14]
NasturtiumTomatogood togethertradition, little evidenceCompanion charts list nasturtium as a good neighbour for tomatoes (UC Master Gardener chart), often as a trap plant for aphids — a tradition we found no trial for. WSU Extension notes that scent-based trap crops draw insects only from about five metres. [7][11]
NasturtiumZucchinigood togethertradition, little evidenceNasturtium is a traditional companion for squash and zucchini (UC Master Gardener chart). No trial we found measured a benefit, and WSU Extension says scent-based trap crops work only over short distances. [7][11]
OnionPeaskeep aparttradition, little evidencePeas are traditionally kept away from the onion family in companion charts (UC Master Gardener chart), but no study we found shows harm. WSU Extension warns that such chart advice is mostly untested. [7][11]
PotatoStrawberrykeep apartpractical reasonPotatoes build up Verticillium wilt in the soil, a disease strawberries suffer from too. Penn State Extension advises against a new strawberry bed where potatoes or their relatives grew, with a 3–5 year rotation. [3]
PotatoTomatokeep apartpractical reasonThe same late blight (Phytophthora infestans) attacks both, and its spores travel on wind and rain splash. WSU Extension advises not to plant potatoes and tomatoes close together; the RHS adds a four-year rotation. [1][2]
PotatoWalnutkeep apartpractical reasonPotatoes are listed as sensitive to juglone, which walnut roots give off; the most juglone is right under the tree, where the roots are. English walnut has some juglone, far less than black walnut, so plant potatoes outside its root zone. [4][5]
StrawberryTomatokeep apartpractical reasonTomatoes can leave Verticillium wilt in the soil, and strawberries catch it. Penn State Extension advises not to start a strawberry bed after tomatoes, potatoes or eggplant, and to rotate for 3–5 years. [3]
Sweet CornTomatokeep apartpractical reasonCorn earworm and tomato fruitworm are one moth, Helicoverpa zea. Once corn silks dry and brown, the moths look for nearby hosts to lay eggs on, so Utah State Extension advises against planting tomatoes near corn. [6]
TomatoWalnutkeep apartpractical reasonWalnut roots release juglone, and tomatoes are on extension lists of sensitive plants (lists based on observation, not trials). Black walnut makes the most; English walnut much less — but under its crown tomatoes also lack sun. [4][5]

Neighbours by plant

Sources

  1. hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/fact-sheet/tomato-late-blight/
  2. rhs.org.uk/disease/potato-and-tomato-blight
  3. extension.psu.edu/strawberry-disease-verticillium-wilt
  4. hort.extension.wisc.edu/black-walnut-toxicity-to-plants/
  5. ask.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=439474
  6. extension.usu.edu/vegetableguide/tomato-pepper-eggplant/tomato-fruitworm
  7. class.ucanr.edu/sites/default/files/2019-03/301140.docx
  8. extension.oregonstate.edu/imported-publication/companion-planting
  9. warren.cce.cornell.edu/gardening-landscape/warren-county-master-gardener-articles/creating-a-three-sisters-garden
  10. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3394648/
  11. pubs.extension.wsu.edu/?p=11537
  12. extension.umd.edu/resource/radishes
  13. orgprints.org/6614/
  14. doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0213071
  15. doi.org/10.1111/j.1570-7458.1984.tb03422.x
  16. journal.fi/afs/article/view/72420
  17. extension.unh.edu/resource/research-report-using-insectary-plants-attract-hoverflies-2017-2018